Many of us have very strong memories and associations with it. We may even have a favorite order. They’ve played host to films with iconic lines such as, “I’ll have what she’s having.” I am, of course, talking about the humble delicatessen, or deli as we call them. Let’s unpack the delicious history of these iconic Jewish American institutions.
The earliest delicatessens (from the German word delikatessen, meaning “delicacies” or “fine foods”) can be traced back to the late 1800s when Jewish immigrants from Germany, Poland, and Russia began settling in cities like Los Angeles and New York City. They brought their finest recipes for smoked fish, smoked meats, and pickled fruits, vegetables, and fish (it’s a kosher pickle because it uses kosher salt — not because it’s kosher!).
By the 1880s, delis started appearing on New York’s Lower East Side, serving comforting staples from the old country such as pastrami, corned beef, matzah ball soup, kosher pickles, and knishes. These delis weren’t just places to pick up food for Shabbat — they were vital community hubs where new immigrants, unfamiliar with their new cultural surroundings, could feel connected to the shtetls they left behind. At the peak of Jewish life on the Lower East Side, some estimates put the number of Jewish-owned delicatessens in the hundreds.
Difference between a Jewish deli and an appetizing store
While we often categorize them all as “delis” today, there was once a clear distinction between the two types of traditional kosher eateries: delis and appetizing stores.
Think of a deli and an appetizing store as the yin and yang of classic Jewish food culture — both delicious, but each serving its own unique offerings.
A deli is where you go for the meaty, savory delights: towering pastrami sandwiches, corned beef, brisket, and perhaps a side of matzah ball soup. It’s all about the schmaltz (literally and figuratively).
An appetizing store, on the other hand, focuses on fish and dairy-based treats — silky lox, briny herring, a variety of cream cheese flavors, and, of course, the perfect bagel to hold it all together. The term “appetizing” refers to small, flavorful foods typically eaten before a meal.
In simple terms, if it moos or clucks, it belongs in the deli; if it swims, it’s at the appetizing store. Either way, you’re in for a nosh that’ll make your bubbe proud!
This separation stems from Jewish dietary laws (kashrut), which prohibit mixing meat and dairy. Since classic Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine includes both, they were served in separate establishments to adhere to these rules.
Jewish delis as an American staple
By the late 1940s, delis were undergoing a transformation that reflected broader shifts in American culture, driven by the post-World War II boom and the rise of suburbia. What started as a Jewish specialty, the deli’s hearty offerings — like the now-iconic pastrami sandwiches piled high on rye — began to attract a much wider audience.
This growing popularity helped turn delis into beloved American institutions, with many expanding beyond urban centers to cater to burgeoning suburban communities. As the overstuffed brisket and corned beef sandwiches became cultural staples, delis solidified their place as go-to spots for a quick, satisfying meal, offering both comfort and convenience to all.
Starting in the 1970s, traditional Jewish delis began to fade. Once lively spots where people gathered for comforting, nostalgic meals, they were now seen as outdated compared to the new fast-food chains and fast-casual eateries popping up. As more Jewish families moved to the suburbs, the regulars who had kept these delis thriving were no longer nearby. The suburban boom shifted the communities that had supported delis in urban areas farther away, causing a significant drop in foot traffic. At the same time, a new focus on health-conscious eating was on the rise, which didn’t square with the salty, starchy, and fatty corned beef sandwiches, matzah ball soup, and knishes of yore.
Bringing back Jewish deli culture
Since the early 2000s, the Jewish deli has experienced a resurgence. This revival can be credited to the millennial and Gen Z grandchildren of the Jews who left the big cities, seeking a greater return to their cultural roots. For these young Jews, these comfort foods evoke a sense of nostalgia and connection to their heritage. For urban foodies, going to an old-fashioned Jewish deli is to have an “authentic culinary experience.” In the case of the famed Katz’s Delicatessen — a 137-year-old cultural institution where waits can be hours — that means a no-frills, busting, and chaotic atmosphere that gives a glimpse into “Old New York” where one needs to clutch their order ticket tighter than a Taylor Swift Eras Tour backstage pass.
Delicatessens have embraced this revival, becoming more strategic with their marketing, branding, culinary offerings, and expansion. Katz’s has amassed 1 million followers on Instagram. Russ & Daughters now has four locations (including their 111-year-old appetizing shop) and the Upper East Side location of Second Avenue Deli features a bar serving menu items like pastrami deviled eggs and Sucker Punch Dill Pickle beer.
The quest to embrace Ashkenazi heritage has extended beyond the Jewish deli. Yiddish now is having a massive revival among younger Jews; the Catskills, the resort location for Jews of yesteryear who were barred from many gentile establishments, is once again having a moment after decades of decline; and other elements of Jewish culture, like seltzer, bagels, and pickles, have been encouraging young people to celebrate their heritage with excursions like the Brooklyn Seltzer Museum and artisanal shops that have modernized these age-old delicacies while honoring their Jewish history.
Though, sadly, many of these institutions are no longer around, others have endured the financial hardship, gentrification of their neighborhoods, and changing cultural trends to remain cornerstones of culinary Jewish American culture — no matter how you slice it.
